It’s Maté, Mate February 2020

So five of us are squished into the tiniest 4×4 I’ve ever been in. It’s 7am, 8 degrees outside, and we are en route to the edge of the Northern Ice Fields in Puerto Tranquilo, Chile. Somehow I’ve lucked out with the backseat middle position. Ian is on my left and an unknown to me Chilean is on my right. I recognize the passenger up front as the guy who drove us to kayak the Marble Caves the day before, but absent any other introductions I do not know the driver today. 

We were running a bit late, so our introductions were a few quick nods of hola, and then we were off on a 1.5 hour journey along completely unpaved roads to the ice fields. I’m not too sure how, but the guy on my right managed to fill and sip maté as we bounced along — passing to the Chileans in the front. Ian and I sat quietly, as interlopers do, not understanding a word of banter between the three of them. After about 30 minutes, Mr. Right turns to me and offers me the silver straw of his maté. 

You know when you learn a new word, or place, or concept and then it starts popping up everywhere soon after? I had just learned about maté and it’s strict rules the day before from our hiking guide. Like Japanese tea ceremonies, if you don’t get it right, you can deeply offend. 

Essentially (in Chile at least) the provider of the maté will only offer it to you with his/her right hand and with the straw pointing towards your face. When you pass it back, you must also use your right hand with the straw pointing towards his/her face. You do not say gracias when handing it back unless you are done and do not want anymore. Maté tastes as horrible as your very first cup of coffee, or cigarette, or beer, but like these it starts to taste pretty good if you keep at it. 

So I kept the rounds going for another half hour (even though I am left-handed), and after my ‘gracias’ they continued among themselves until all the hot water was gone. And somehow, round after round, and in rudimentary Spanish, the conversation began to include us and maté became my friend. 

The Northern Ice Fields – glacier hiking.

Valparaiso, Chile: where the Patagonian adventure ends.