I know no one in Ireland. This section of my trip was authentically solo. So I rented a car from Dublin airport and set out on a 10 day journey down the West Coast of Ireland from Galway to County Cork, and yet this trip was the least solo I have felt in the last few months. Big shout-out to Kieran & Conor for the inspiration and guidance in making this possible . . .
It is difficult to explain; you must come here to experience the Irish friendliness first-hand. You can sit in a pub or a cafe alone and the Irish always, always come over to start a bit of chat, or spin a yarn.
I did not believe it at first, but it is so much a part of the way things are, you will notice all the tourists are doing the same thing as well. Whereas in our own countries I am certain we as strangers would not sit down at each other’s tables and start random chats everywhere we go; here, in Ireland, it is what you do. It is what everyone does, and so we all did.
My first stop en route to Galway was the Cliffs of Moher. The photos speak for themselves.
As I was walking back to the car, I passed three people I recognised from spending an hour behind them in rental car line at Dublin airport the day before. We all did a double-take and decided to meet for dinner.
These legends are all on active duty in the US military. We all come from widely varied backgrounds and experiences, and knowing our paths are likely crossing for just this one evening, we spent the night sharing a meal and quite a few laughs.
I woke up the next morning and decided to change my plans (because I can!) and drive 4 hours North to County Mayo instead of South like I had planned. I was rewarded a peaceful walk to a waterfall.
And one of the best scenic drives ever.
I passed through the Doolough Valley which is the site of the Doolough Tragedy during the Great Irish Famine. In this instance, a group of starving locals were forced to walk in perilous conditions and present themselves to government officials to be eligible for government support — but the government officials never showed up.
Though the landscape is stunning, the staggering terrain also gives perspective on the brutality of this tragedy.
I unexpectedly passed by the village of Moate, so I had to make a pit stop.
It was in Moate that I encountered muffin’s answer to all muffins. We all know the best part of a muffin is the muffin-top, and this little cafe only sells muffin-tops — filled with jam.
I then spent a few days in Galway taking in ‘trad’ (traditional) music every chance I got.
This was my first stumble into pub where the locals were sharing a pint and a song.
One afternoon, I heard a bit of commotion outside my windows and looked it and saw this unannounced gathering coming my way.
So I ran downstairs and captured these two videos of the parade celebrating the Arts Festival in Galway that week.
This was just the beginning of my ‘music coast’ awakening; about 3 hours South is my favourite stop on the West Coast of Ireland, a village called Dingle.
People say there is something about this place that draws you in and you find yourself stuck here longer than you intended. Another legend says that if you stick your toes in this part of the Atlantic, you will leave part of your soul in Dingle.
I did not pre-book accommodation in Dingle. I had a place about an hour away and only intended to drive through Dingle, visit, and drive out. But when I arrived, I encountered these two giving a little two hour performance.
So I cancelled my booking in Killarney and stayed the night in Dingle where I got to check out more.
The next morning, after a full night of trad music, I booked another night because leaving so soon would have left me with an empty feeling.
It wasn’t until I got to my next destination, raving about how good Dingle was, that I was told stories about how travelers local and abroad find themselves stuck in Dingle and this film, Blow-Ins tells you all about it. .
As of now, I have already booked a return to Dingle for a weekend in August . . .
I finished my road trip which a loop (of about 4 hours) around the Ring of Kerry; which could fill another roll of film, but these pretty much capture the day.
Next up, just a quick couple of catch-ups in Spain before returning to Ireland for an extended stay.
Closing out with a non-Norbert photo; cause this Irish fella is so damn cute.